Tired of the same old New Years eve party? Does your heart strain to experience the incredible peak experience Bill Graham and the dead used to give us? Well, Jerry may be gone, but every New Year's Eve, Portland Oregon Deadheads rock the rafters with the next best thing. If the following scenario seems appealing, we invite you to take a road trip and join us for the most deadicated boogie on the planet. Eleven minutes to midnight and the Grand Ballroom of the Masonic Temple in the Portland Museum of Art has started to quiver with electric anticipation. More than a thousand Deadheads are awaiting that undeniably magical moment when the old year is put behind us and the new, potentially most amazing year ever is born. Suddenly, every light in the hall goes dark. Onstage, the Zen Tricksters, who play the Grateful Dead's music astonishingly well, segue quickly from deep Space into a Mardi Gras-style shuffle, urging the crowd to chant along, "Out with the old, and in with the new." Spotlights slice through the darkness and eventually land on a huge, ten-foot-tall, tie-dyed float at the back of the hall. From up out of the float rises Father Time, accompanied by a perfectly portly lad wearing a huge (and remarkably resemblant) papier- mache mask of Jerry Garcia. Next to Jerry, who's waving with one hand clutching an exact replica of the Doug Irwin Tiger guitar in the other, is another pleasantly plump fellow dressed as Pig Pen (also wearing a life-like mask). Both are sporting feathered angel's wings on their backs. The Dead angles and Father Time are surrounded by lovely velvet-clad women who begin to throw hundreds of thornless red roses into the crowd from the float. As the music surges, a parade is launched. A small, stealthy theater parade crew parts the crowd and a conga line of wildly costumed characters comes running from the back hall, waving huge tie-dyed banners. Larger-than-life skeleton marionettes and ten-foot-tall Rasta-man puppets (created by the amazing Risk of Change puppet ensemble from Seattle) start to lead the conglomeration toward the stage. The smell of burning white sage permeates the room as the energy begins to build to an uncontainable level. The Ballroom is surging as the puppets sway to and fro. The magical mystery parade winds its way through these thousand laughing partygoers, and somehow, like a David Copperfield trick, the whole mad mass gets to the stage in time and, "Three, two, one - Haaaappy New Year!" Father Time thunderously exhorts, as the lights come on, a jillion balloons fall from the ceiling and the whole crowd takes off on a magic carpet ride while the Tricksters break into the finest rendition of Lovelight this reviewer has ever heard any band play. Baby New Year, clad in a tie-dyed diaper swings out to center stage and the two characters embrace and start to do a joyous jig. Deadheads on the dance floor swim in a sea of balloons. Amidst all this mayhem the Tricksters are playing as though their lives depend on it. Dan and Brenda Cohen Peltier, who own Think Good Thoughts and organized and ran this event, are the epitome of Portland's spiritual counterculture largesse. Even though the Badillions, a modern East Coast incarnation of the Merry Pranksters, did a lot of organizing, Dan and Brenda and their staff had their hands plenty full trying to put the whole production together. As seven o'clock approached, everyone in the hall who had helped to put this event in motion gathered together in a circle for a big group hug and a few words of inspiration. The bottom line, the measure of success, is Phun (spelled with a P-H because Phun is way beyond ordinary fun; it is the kind of Crazy Wisdom Experience that changes your life), and the organizers came together in a huddle chanting their mantra: "Toward the Phun." Almost 800 people were already in the hall as the evening's first act, Seattle folk genius Jim Page took the stage. His tight set of original blues and folk tunes were respectfully received (including a very hip tune entitled Goin' to Eugene to See The Dead), and while people were not really dancing yet, they were up on their feet and ready for a real good time. At about 8:30, Portland's own Higher Ground seized the stage. These handsome lads play what they like to call "acoustic-fired back roots rock." The now defunct Higher Ground had the crowd in the palms of their hands as they jammed original but seemingly familiar tunes. At 9:45, as Higher Ground finished up and the sweaty people in the sweet spot in front of he soundboard/Light Show platform gathered themselves. The New Year was drawing over a thousand people by the time John Dwork got on the stage to do a little aural Deadication, invoking the spirits to come and visit. Everyone quieted down to hear what he had to say, on this, the holiest night of the Deadhead calendar. As John rapped about how the Dead and the Pranksters used to honor the tao of chaos, he started to play a bizarre little machine that rearranged the digital voice recordings from children's electronic toys, making it sound as though psychedelic gnomes were swooshing through the hall. The Tricksters poured onstage and began to back him with a perfect Space jam. As images of sacred Holy Fools dissolved up onto the giant screen behind the band, John urged us all to move "Toward the Phun," while the Zen Tricksters broke out of the cathartic Space climax into a resplendent Eyes of the World. The entire room exploded in bliss - the invocation had worked. Jeff Mattson does Jerry as well as Jerry did Jerry in 1974, and this Eyes of the World was a mint demonstration of the Tricksters' dominance of Dead tunes. Eyes of the World segued into on of the Tricksters' own songs, Arise, a high-energy tune with heavy Afro-Carribean flavoring. I think the band is getting much better at playing their won tunes in the midst of the heavily Dead-oriented sets, which is a difficult task since their songs are less familiar to us. The band then brought the energy down a few notches by offering an exquisite reading of Here Comes Sunshine, as soaring through a sea of clouds. This swooped directly into China Cat Sunflower, and by now, the thousand-plus heads of Portland were having as much fun as they did at any Dead show in recent memory. China Cat Segued into another original, Lay Your Love, with a real slinky, funk groove, and then the band jammed back into I Know You Rider. As the Tricksters took a break, the lights snapped on to reveal a sea of sweaty Deadheads all starting to shine that it's-11:30-on- December 31st-and-I'm-just-beginning-to-peak-perfectly smile. Like the Acid Tests, the parade during the break and the orgiastic boogie that followed was a performance by and for everyone. It was as special as any magic moment the Dead had ever reached with its audiences. Everyone turned on their lovelights as we started the new year with love in our hearts and wide, wide smiles on our faces. When Lovelight climaxed some fifteen minutes later, the lights went down, save a red glow onstage, and the Tricksters slipped into one of my favorite songs, Scarlet Begonias. On the light show screen dancers began a slow-motion pas de deux amidst giant slides of deep red roses. From either side of the stage, belly dancers emerged and began to do scarf dances! Everyone (including the band) got wide-eyed again as the very heavy scene ebbed and flowed onstage. Standing in the delighted crowd, I felt the universal love that Scarlet Begonias speaks of. The singer lets her pass by because he is aware that no matter how much love he feels for this wonderful woman at that precise moment, it is only a drop in the ocean of love that is all around us. Even though he learns the hard way, by the end, "strangers are stopping strangers just to shake their hands, and everybody's playing in the heart-of-gold band." And so we were. But the Phun was just beginning, really, as the band elicited shrieks of delight by peeling off the trademark opening notes of St. Stephen. Instantly, a wave of electricity shot through the hall. St. Stephen was the song I'd always wanted most to hear the Dead play live, and though I've hear the Tricksters do it before, this version was absolutely unfuckinbelievable. When they got to the "Ladyfinger" verse the lights all blacked out, save a lone white spotlight on center stage. A diva from the Portland Opera came out and, as everyone quieted intensely, she sang the gentle lyrics. The entire hall was hypnotized! As she got to the final line of the verse, both she and the band rose in volume. As she hit and held the last magnificent note, the Tricksters exploded into a mind-bending jam, as the light show projected a backdrop of images of saints from the stained-glass windows at Chartres Cathedral in France. I swear to you there wasn't one person who didn't have goosebumps. It was just incredible! St. Stephen flowed seamlessly into a full-blown Cryptical, which in turn gave way to a ferocious Other One. After Jeff Mattson's screaming guitar leads tore a hole in the fabric of normal reality, he brought the band into a luscious rendition of Terrapin Station. This led, poetically, back into the Other One, replete with a closing, apocalyptic Cryptical Reprise. The band could've stopped there at one AM. But no, these are New York Deadhead musicians and only complete, over-the-top madness would suffice. They leaped headfirst into a festive Iko-Iko, then brought the energy down to a slow boil and steady simmer with their Stella Blue-like original Shine Your Light. Then they headed toward the finish line with a mind-bending rendition of The Eleven, which frenzied the crowd properly for the final funky bursts of the beloved and oft-sought Cosmic Charlie. While some people may have heard their mama callin' them home, most of the crowd was on hand for the rousing third set. The Tricksters stepped into the spotlight again and let everyone know they had plenty of steam left by delivering a textbook performance of Hard to Handle, complete with the classic Fillmore East '71-style volcanic crescendo. I've seen them do about a dozen of these and this was by far the most amazing. They burned it. This led straight into their own Cumberland Blues-style tune, Done is Done, a number that perfectly set up the stellar Help> Slip> Franklin's to end the set. Without disappointments, the Zen Tricksters remounted the stage and pulled a Golden Road To Unlimited Devotion encore from out of their nostalgic hats, and we all found a second or third wind to dance. This led directly into a sweet and syrupy Brokedown Palace. I found myself getting that same lumpy feeling in my throat, that anyone who has ever been to a Dead show got when it was the last time you were going to be seeing the Boys for a while. The bittersweet caress of this was a blessing; but it was over and we had to go home, find a place by this precious waterside to lay our bones. Words cannot adequately describe the warm glow that infused that room when the lights finally went up. Everyone just sort of floated out of the museum with ecstatic grins on their faces. The Grateful Dead as a band may only be memories now, but the Grateful Dead experience lives on. Somehow, on New Year's Eve, we created that same magical space, that sacred collective groove, as all in attendance rode a magic carpet ride toward the phun. The entire experience was a phenomenal, and everyone I spoke to afterwards marked their mental calendars for this coming New Year's Eve. Same Dead time, same Dead channel. David Marglin